"Naked male sport climbers? No! I want naked male trad hogs! Pushing 50 or over, very hairy chest and back, front tooth missing (no dental insurance), wrinkled yellow toenail fungus, sunburnt dome with long gray ponytail (sparse curls will do), fingers the size of Polish sausages, torn-off nipples due to offwidth damage... Now there's a man, an image to behold, every climber chick's dream. And when he says: 'Hey, honey, wanna do the DNB?' you just melt into a heap of adoring lard."
- Inez Drixelius
Robert Jasper and Roger Schäli completed the first free ascent of the Japanese Direct on the north face of the Eiger in late August. The 1969 Japanese ascent forced a route up the steepest part of the limestone wall, with the aid of about 250 bolts. Jasper and Schäli free-climbed the 1,800-meter route at 5.13b M5 over four days, with serious danger from rock fall and poor protection. Read Jasper’s account and see more photos here…
Taken from: Climbing Magazine.
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Taken from Alpinist #10
