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"Profanity is about the best pro you'll get until the crack starts to narrow. Include doubles of profanity in the #6 to #8 range on your rack for this lead."

- Bruce Bindner

Archive for February, 2009

Monday, February 23rd, 2009

Alpine Light?

A few years ago, my infamous and extraordinary friend, Cedar Wright, told the world that Patagonia was “light” – as in weightless, fluffy, insubstantial, carefree. So I sit, rolling that word, like a little rock, around my mouth. He was referring to the Internet weather forecasting, the coffee, the beer, the pizza, the access to town, in contrast to the remoteness of the Karakorum or the era when Jim Donnini and Yvon Chouinard first came here. Yes, this place is light; it has paved roads and fancy hotels. But who is he to say that this makes the climbing in Patagonia light? And who am I, as a rock climber, to be writing about alpine climbing when I hardly know the difference between neve and alpine ice?..

The Cleanest Line: Alpine Light?

Sunday, February 22nd, 2009

A weird, unusual, special & fun day

Odina and I had plans to go for a hike to Nevado de Toluca today, the idea was also to take Mokka with us. However, Odina (a.k.a. Happy Cheeks) woke up not feeling very well, also the day didn’t look very promising since there were clouds everywhere as well as scattered rains. Definitely a bad combination for hiking in the mountains…

So I opted for a change in plans. We came back to my place and while Odina took a long nap I played with Mokka and did some housekeeping stuff. She woke up at noon then we had a long philosophical chat about life… At 2 p.m. we realized we were starving so we went out to get some tacos for lunch. On our way to the taqueria, we passed by the circus and bought a pair of tickets for the evening show.

After lunch we noticed that the clouds were almost gone and that the afternoon promised good weather so we picked up the crash pad from my place and went for some bouldering at Chiluca’s cave. I taught her the basics of climbing and she was able to do a little bit of the traverses on her own, she definitely has abilities. We rested and chatted as the sunset came close then headed to the circus because the show was about to begin.

We greatly enjoyed the spectacle, it had been a very long time since we went to the circus. We saw acrobats, clowns, horses, tigers, etc. for almost 2 hours, we were amazed just like every other kid in the arena. After the show we called it a day and headed back home, really happy that we ended up having such a great time despite the change in plans

Wednesday, February 18th, 2009

Real training

So it’s been almost 2 months that I got back into serious training. Mokka is old enough now to get more frequent long runs with me and also I have the purpose of doing two 100-mile mountain ultras this year.

It’s amazing how fast the body can re-adapt to rigorous training, muscles do have memory. During this period I’ve increased mileage from almost daily 5 km to 15 km every other day. I got a little bit of knee pains in the first couple of weeks, but nothing that good icing and aspirins couldn’t fix. Losing weight (with diet) and strengthening the quadriceps has helped a lot as well. I’ve also mixed the training with endurance bouldering sessions and quick mountain ascents in between running days, training at altitude is very important.

I feel like I’ll be ready for running my first short ultra of the year in about a month, which will be Carrera de Resistencia en las Montañas in its “short” 63 km (40 miles) version. You might remember that last year I didn’t felt so well during the race so I had to bail at the halfway point. I’m hoping to finish it this time and with a respectable time, lets see how it goes… But now back into training!

Sunday, February 8th, 2009

New toy

I’ve played guitars for almost 15 years. I always wanted to give a try to bass guitar, its pounding sounds have always amazed me. Today I finally resolved to get one and start playing. I bought an Ibanez EDB555, which is a 5-string bass guitar with a beautiful walnut flat wooden finish. Can’t wait to be slapping notes on it…

Wednesday, February 4th, 2009

perl -e ‘$age =~ s/30/31/g if $today eq “4/2/2009″;’

Yeah, today I became 1 year older and, hopefully, a little bit wiser… I want to thank to all those who remembered the date and sent me messages and phone calls. Thanks for hanging around with me through all these 31 years. I love you all, you know who you are