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"Breaking into a new area of climbing while remaining safe is probably sort of like practicing religion. There's no best way to do it, and if you screw up, you're going down..."

- Nate Beckwith

Wednesday, May 07, 2008

Slovenians Overcome Difficulties in Ruth Gorge

Fellow Slovenian Tina Di Batista and I went climbing in the Alaska Range's Ruth Gorge this April. We came in on April 7 and were rather disappointed with the poor conditions: lots of snow and no ice. But while we waited for the snow conditions to improve, on April 13 we climbed Ham and Eggs (V 5.8 AI4, 850m, Davies-Krakauer-Zinsser, 1975) on Mooses Tooth. Five days later we made the probable second ascent of Freezy Nuts in London Tower, a Manu Pelissier and Manu Guy route from 1996. They graded it TD+, 95 degrees, 800m, but now we found the route much easier—more like grade 3 ice climbing. Many parties after us climbed the line, which covers excellent, moderate terrain. The route could become the most popular in the Gorge, as a quick party can climb it in a half-day round-trip...

Taken from: Alpinist Magazine.

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