Modern Alpinism In The Alps
On Friday, July 13, Thomas Emonet (23), a strong and motivated youth from Samoens in the Giffree Valley, and I were on the north face of the Aiguille Sans Nom (3982m), on a line I’d scoped out while climbing the Gabarrou-Silvy (VI WI6 6b A1, 1000m, Gabarrou-Silvy, 1978) with Aymeric Clouet, during our March 2006 enchainment of the Aiguille Verte and the Grandes Jorasses. The route follows a line to the left of the Gabarrou-Silvy on the 350-meter wall at the bottom of the Aiguille Sans Nom’s north face, traverses the serac halfway up the face, then exits via a steep wall, defined by an obvious crack and a series of gullies. We needed two bivouacs to complete the line, which we called the Tifenn Route (V 6 A1 M8+, 1100m): the first at the end of the base wall, the second at the top of the Pointe Croux, shortly before the summit of the Verte…
Taken from: Alpinist Magazine.
