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"I've seen 5.11 divided into 11 different grades of increasing difficulty, as follows: 5.11a, 5.10d, 5.11-, 5.11b, 5.11, 5.11c, 5.9 squeeze, 5.11+, 5.10 OW, 5.12a, 5.11d."

- Brutus of Wyde

Sunday, February 12th, 2006

Tropical climbing?

Imagine a rock formation like Devils Tower but 1 km away from the sea, with giant basalt pillars which create long crack systems and sheer walls pocketed enough for face climbing… Yes, you got the idea.

The mountain is called Cerro de los Metates and it’s located in Quiahuiztlán, an archeological site from the ancient totonaca culture. I haven’t been in Machu Picchu before, but judging by the pictures I’ve seen, I can say that Quiahuiztlán has the same magic but with a beach setting instead of a mountain one .

I’ve always liked climbing in cold places instead of hot ones, but two weeks ago Güero showed me some pictures of this mountain and I was clicked. It was the main reason for this trip.

By the early morning, we (Gina, Güero, Arturo & I) explored the main walls and got marveled of the many opportunities they have for creating new routes. The rock is perfect for multi-pitch trad & sport climbs! Unfortunately, the weather wasn’t very friendly, there was a tropical storm and the winds were very strong (Patagonia style, seriously) but without rain.

We found 3 existing routes and managed to climb 2 of them. We were psyched of climbing in such a tropical setting but with a cold weather outfit (pants, jersey and wind jacket), very weird. The first route was very easy and enjoyable, a 2-pitch 5.8 with high wind exposure (it was an arete). The 2nd route is one of the most beautiful 5.9′s I’ve lead in my life, a route that doesn’t seem easy from the ground (we sight-graded it between 5.10-5.11) but didn’t happen to be hard. It was a real joy to climb, so adventurous…

By the afternoon, we got out of there and went to the beach in the village of Quiahuiztlán. We searched for an existing climbing zone at the seacliffs. We found it, but the weather was so bad, the sea so furious and the bolts so corroded, that we opted to bail and get something to eat. We ended up in the city of Veracruz and had a great seafood dinner.

Today it was all fun & adventure. I must go back to that place soon…

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